Calgary’s Women of Wine

The Ingenue: Aisha Zaman

Aisha is one of the cities newest sommeliers, having recently stepped into the role at the historic Inglewood property, Deane House. Her early days in the industry as a server at Model Milk and then Ottawa’s Play: Food and Wine, and Beckta, were formative in her decision to enter the industry. When Aisha moved back to Calgary, she began studying for her certified sommelier exam while working at River Café, the sister restaurant to Deane House. With support from River Café’s sommelier, Bruce Soley, and owner, Sal Howell, she completed her sommelier exam and soon after took over the sommelier position
at Deane House.

Her genuine love and passion for wine is evident, “I love that any moment can be heightened with the ideal wine choice. I don’t just love drinking wine, but my true passion lies in serving wine and creating curated experiences for people. I also love that it’s essentially produce, in the way that it is effected by its climate and how it is cared for. So I love learning the nuances of why a wine from this region at this time tastes a certain way.” As the restaurant adapts to COVID, you can expect a curated wine list that reflects the philosophy of sustainability while supporting smaller producers.

The OG: Karen Kho

In and around 2002, there was a new regime of wine professionals coming up in the city, many of them having worked under the tutelage of Brad Royale, one of Calgary’s best-known wine personalities. Among them was Karen Kho. I like to think of Karen as the “OG” of the Calgary wine scene. She has a wicked palate and makes drinking wine look classy and badass all at the same time (there’s not many women I know that can flawlessly chug a bottle of Meursault). After starting her career at Bin 905, Kho went on to open Vin Room, Calgary’s first wine bar, followed by a lengthy career with the Teatro Group where she helped to develop one of the most legendary cellars in the province and educate her own legion of wine professionals.

These days Kho and her partner are the meaty masterminds behind Empire Provisions, one of Calgary’s finest purveyors of all things meat, Lil’ Empire, the burger joint tucked away inside Annex Ales and a second location for Empire Provisions, opening soon in Bridgeland. It might seem like an odd progression to move from a career in fine dining to opening a deli (with a great little wine list I should note) but it appears that the move has worked out quite well. “If you had asked me in my first year [if I missed working at Teatro], I would have said yes unequivocally, I miss it all the time. But as we enter our third year of business I would have to say no. This is not because I have any ill will towards my old colleagues but rather because the time that I spent there prepared me for what has been the most rewarding stage of my career yet. Fine dining at its very core is about providing exceptional hospitality and I am able to use that skill set every day in my own business. While my access to fine wine tasting is limited these days, my education is always ongoing. Calgary is a playground for oenophiles and I have no shortage of places to taste, explore and fuel my first love, wine.”

The Grand Dame: Janet Webb

Janet Webb has been in the industry since the 1980’s, where she was the sommelier at La Caille Restaurant, one of Calgary’s first fine dining properties. Shortly after the restaurant closed its doors, the AGLC wanted to test the waters with independently owned wine boutiques, giving out just four licenses across the province. Thanks in large part to her work at La Caille, Janet was handed one of these licenses and hence, the birth of J Webb Wine Merchants. If you haven’t been to J Webb before, make it a priority. They have one of the most thoughtfully curated selections in the city and a passionate staff that really know their stuff when it comes to food and wine pairings. “The wine and food side of my business has always been very important to me. I was raised with wine and food on the table, and I was taught the importance of the two components being enjoyed together. I have also had the opportunity to meet some amazing chefs and learn so much about food from them, so it’s quite natural for me to pass it along to the J Webb staff and our customers.”

You’ll find that a common question at J Webb is who the “J” in J Webb actually is, and customers are visibly surprised when they find out it’s Janet. Unfazed, Webb takes satisfaction in how the industry and perceptions have evolved in the 35 years since J Webb opened. “The reaction to my gender has changed significantly over the years. At the beginning there was a lot of curiosity. Most of the challenges came when buying wine from other countries. Back then there were no women winemakers to speak of and it was a man’s world. Times have changed! Women are now holding many positions in the industry and I have a great deal of respect for their knowledge and passion. It can be challenging work, but so worth it.”

Janet Webb has been in the industry since the 1980’s, where she was the sommelier at La Caille Restaurant, one of Calgary’s first fine dining properties. Shortly after the restaurant closed its doors, the AGLC wanted to test the waters with independently owned wine boutiques, giving out just four licenses across the province. Thanks in large part to her work at La Caille, Janet was handed one of these licenses and hence, the birth of J Webb Wine Merchants. If you haven’t been to J Webb before, make it a priority. They have one of the most thoughtfully curated selections in the city and a passionate staff that really know their stuff when it comes to food and wine pairings. “The wine and food side of my business has always been very important to me. I was raised with wine and food on the table, and I was taught the importance of the two components being enjoyed together. I have also had the opportunity to meet some amazing chefs and learn so much about food from them, so it’s quite natural for me to pass it along to the J Webb staff and our customers.”

You’ll find that a common question at J Webb is who the “J” in J Webb actually is, and customers are visibly surprised when they find out it’s Janet. Unfazed, Webb takes satisfaction in how the industry and perceptions have evolved in the 35 years since J Webb opened. “The reaction to my gender has changed significantly over the years. At the beginning there was a lot of curiosity. Most of the challenges came when buying wine from other countries. Back then there were no women winemakers to speak of and it was a man’s world. Times have changed! Women are now holding many positions in the industry and I have a great deal of respect for their knowledge and passion. It can be challenging work, but so worth it.”