Peel and neatly core (think melon baller) pears.
Place 6 halves in the bottom of a deep heatproof dish.
Stir nutmeg and lemon zest into sugar.
Sprinkle half the mixture over the pears.
Add the other 6 halves and sprinkle them with the remaining half of the sugar mixture.
Add white wine and lemon juice and cover tightly with foil.
Bake for about 2 hours at 325 F.
Let cool, still covered, until room temperature, then chill well.
Serve in clear glass coupes or bowls with custard or whipped cream.