for the love of pie

Pie has a way of connecting past and present, from ancient ovens to Calgary’s modern bakeries.

What began as a way to preserve food has become a symbol of comfort and creativity, shaped by the hands of bakers who turn simple ingredients into something extraordinary.

Story by Lailani Mendoza-Lai

When you experience the perfect pie, it’s nothing short of transcendent. First comes the warm, comforting aroma — cinnamon, brown sugar, nutmeg, or perhaps savoury herbs wafting from a bubbling filling. Then, the pleasant contrast of textures — golden, flaky crust on the outside, tender layers giving way to fruit, cream, or slow-cooked meat within. Add a scoop of melting ice cream or a drizzle of cream, and stress will be the last thing on your mind.

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A slice through time

Pies have been around for millennia. Ancient Egyptians baked the first known versions: honey-filled cakes wrapped in oat or barley crusts. The Greeks had dedicated pastry chefs, the Romans carried pies across Europe via their new roads, and the British and French refined the art until settlers brought it to Canada in the 17th century.

Interestingly, that beloved flaky crust wasn’t always eaten. In early seafaring days, pastry was a kind of storage container, a utilitarian way to keep food fresh for long voyages. Later, in Renaissance Europe, pies became decorated masterpieces, with elaborate crimping and pastry leaves identifying their contents. The decor wasn’t just for show; it helped identify the pies in storage for later consumption. Savoury meat pies were decorated with pastry leaves, tassels and wider fluting, while sweet pies were simply brushed with egg wash. The tradition of marking pies has never truly disappeared — it’s just evolved.

“Originally, pie was a housing unit. We can put stew in this hard crust of flour and water, and it will be airtight, and [keep food fresh longer in ships for explorers], trying to find the new world,” says Nancy Goemans, founder and co-owner of Pie Junkie in Calgary. Pies were also stackable, which saved space.

Today, pies are an art form themselves. Lesi Lambert of Lambert Academy of Sugar Craft certainly doesn’t just stick to traditional lattice, as seen on the front cover of this edition of our magazine.

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The heart of pie at the Calgary Farmers’ Market

Walk through the Calgary Farmers’ Market on a Saturday morning and follow the scent of butter and pastry — you’ll find yourself at Yum Bakery. The display case glistens with golden tourtière, jewel-bright strawberry rhubarb pies, flaky croissants and rustic apple tarts. By midday, most of it is gone.

Yum Bakery isn’t just about baking, it’s about belonging. Founded on family values, the business is now run day-to-day by the owners’ second eldest daughter, with other siblings lending their skills over the years. Many of their staff have been part of the team since the early days, a testament to the bakery’s commitment not only to recipes and customers, but to each other.

“The bakery is the all-ages most dangerous place in the farmers’ market,” jokes David Catling, co-founder of Yum with his wife, Debbie Catling, “because anyone of any age can connect to a pie, a tart, or a croissant.” And it’s true — their pies feel like home. Whether it’s a holiday table anchored by a tourtière, or a summer evening shared over strawberry rhubarb, each one is made from scratch, with care and patience in every fold of the dough.

For those with a creative streak, Yum Bakery even offers custom-designed pies. Tell them your favourite flavours and they’ll work with you to create a one-of-a-kind dessert. And if you can’t make it to the market early, online ordering ensures you can reserve your pie before the inevitable sell-out.

From ancient Egypt to modern Calgary, the pie has endured — not just as a food, but as a feeling. It’s the golden crust you cut into on a holiday afternoon, the comfort of a slice after a long week, and the shared joy of something baked with care.

And if David Mamet was right, maybe the simplest solution to life’s stresses is this: find a pie, find your people and dig in.

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Why we keep coming back to pie

Pies are endlessly versatile: sweet or savoury, humble or showstopping, seasonal or timeless. They preserve autumn’s bounty for winter, feed a crowd with ease and spark nostalgia with a single bite. In Canada, tourtière — Quebec’s spiced meat pie — is a Christmas staple. Flapper pie, with its graham crust and vanilla custard, is a Prairie classic born in Depression-era kitchens.

And then there are the pies you can only get here and now — fresh from a Calgary baker’s oven, still warm in their tins.

Here’s where you can do just that…

Pie Junkie

PIE JUNKIE

What makes them unique: For the past 10 years, Pie Junkie has expanded their offerings with unique flavours and delectable pairings (their TV Dinners are a combo of one sweet and savoury pie), and even opened new locations (Kensington and West District) to serve Calgarians. What hasn’t changed is their oh-so-flaky, all-butter pastry, and commitment to traditional pie making.

What to try: Steak Stout and Gruyere for savoury; Key Lime or Banana Toffee for sweet. Visit piejunkie.ca for more information.

Pies Plus

PIES PLUS CAFE

What makes them unique: This country-style, family-owned café and pie shop in Avenida Shopping Centre is a go-to for many Calgarians – with its century-old mixer still playing an essential role in making their handmade pies! Pies come in nostalgic metal pie plates, which you can return for a $2 refund (you know, to help fund your future pie indulgences).

What to try: Lemon Meringue or Saskatoon. Visit piespluscafe.com for more information.

Blackfoot Truck Stop

BLACKFOOT TRUCK STOP

What makes them unique: One of the city’s iconic landmarks, this spot has been serving Calgarians their favourite diner classics since 1956. They’re also known for their mile-high pies, so if you want a taste of the prairies’ original classic dessert, definitely try their famous flapper pie.

What to try: Flapper or Lemon Meringue. Visit them at 1840 9 Ave. S.E.

Pie Cloud

PIE CLOUD

What makes them unique: Whether you’re craving classic pies or something non-traditional, Pie Cloud has something for everyone. For the past 10 years, Calgarians have enjoyed creative concoctions like their signature Marshmallow Mermaid, and their quiche of the day two ways, one for meat-eaters and another for  vegetarians.

What to try: BBQ Beef, Blackberry Cheesecake. Visit piecloud.ca for more information.

Yum Baker

YUM BAKERY

What makes them unique: While Yum Bakery regularly serves up soul-warming classics like tourtière, apple and strawberry rhubarb pies, which are made from scratch, they’re far from traditionalists. They welcome a challenge and will happily custom-design a pie to suit your tastes — give them a few details.

With long-serving staff and a genuine family atmosphere woven into everything they do, Yum Bakery’s team is as warm and comforting as a slice of homemade apple pie itself.

Yum Bakery offers online ordering for in-store pick up to guarantee you get what you want, regardless of when you can make it to the store.

What to try: Tourtière or use your imagination to create your own delectable delight alongside the staff. Visit yum-bakery.com or Calgary Farmers’ Market South and West.

Pie perfection

PIE PERFECTION

  • Keep It Cold: Chill butter, flour and even mixing bowls before making pastry to ensure a flaky crust.
  • Don’t Overwork It: Too much kneading toughens dough — handle it gently.
  • Blind Bake for Success: Pre-bake crusts for cream or custard pies to avoid soggy bottoms.
  • Fruit Filling Fix: Toss fruit with a little cornstarch to keep juices from flooding the crust.
  • Rest Before Serving: Let pies cool slightly so fillings set — cutting too soon leads to runny slices.
pie doodle
a few crusty facts

A FEW CRUSTY FACTS

Oldest Known Pie: The first recorded pies were baked in Egypt around 6000 BCE — they were made with oats or barley and filled with honey.

Royal Centrepiece: In 16th-century England, pies were so elaborate they sometimes contained live birds or frogs that would “leap out” when cut open for entertainment.

Pie in the Sky: In the United States, apple pie became a cultural icon in the early 20th century, tied to ideas of home and patriotism.

Canada’s Claim to Fame: Tourtière from Quebec and Flapper Pie from the Prairies are two distinctly Canadian favourites.

World’s Largest Pie: In 1990, a fruit pie weighing over 10 tonnes was baked in Stratford, England.