Fresh Garden Peas

Peas are part of the huge legume family which boasts (among many other unlikely members) beans, lentils and, interestingly, peanuts. They are among the oldest of cultivated crops with ancient remains found in the Middle East dating back to the Neolithic period. These powerhouse vegetables are generally tasked with the heavy lifting of vegetarianism. However, while peas in their fresh green form are often considered one of the delicacies of the family, they are still chock full of fibre and protein.

Fresh garden peas signal early summer for those of us here in Alberta. While peas in pods sold in supermarkets are nice enough, nothing comes close to the taste of peas picked that morning (or as close as). Peas, like many sweet vegetables (think corn and asparagus), don’t stay fresh long after harvest. The sugar that makes them so delectable begins to convert to starch as soon as they’re picked. If you aren’t able to produce your own, although they’re famously easy to grow, seek out a local grower at your favourite farmers’ market (Edgar Farms, we’re looking at you) and make a pest of yourself until they appear.

I’m referring here to English or garden peas, the ones you shell yourself, but there are snap peas and flat-podded snow peas as well. We often see the latter two throughout the year and because the pods are edible — sweet and crunchy — they’re wonderful in stir fries and salads. But in my opinion, the real joy is popping fresh sweet English peas out of their pod and into your mouth. This is best done as one pretends to be shelling peas for another, nobler purpose.

If you can get past simply eating them like candy, the sky’s the limit to what you can do with peas. The season is short and then they’re gone; make the most

of fresh peas while they’re here. Fresh peas blanched in boiling water, served simply with a little garlic butter, lemon juice, and perhaps a sprig or two of mint is as fancy as you should get. That said, this distinctive preparation, taking it’s cue from basil pesto, could easily become a new seasonal favourite.

I mention fresh peas a bit repetitively, and they are indeed a great treat, but there is absolutely nothing wrong with frozen. As a matter of fact, a bag of frozen peas constitutes a pantry item in my house. If you have peas to spare while they’re here, which is surprisingly hard to do, freeze them. Blanche the peas first for a mere minute or two in lots of boiling water to keep the bright green colour. Quickly drain and refresh in ice water to stop the cooking, drain again, and then dry them as well as you can. Spread the peas out on baking sheets, freeze, and then pour into sealable bags to pop back in the freezer.

Otherwise, store them in the refrigerator for up to 5 days in a paper bag inside of a plastic bag. When buying peas in the pod, the most important thing to look for is freshness and moisture. As they dry out, they lose their sweetness and become starchy and stodgy.

I can’t leave you without extolling the delights of fresh pea shoots. The entire plant is edible and the bright new curling shoots are as delicate and sweet as anything you’ll find in a salad or as a garnish. A fleeting pleasure, so be on the lookout.