cut leeks

Leeks are close relatives of onions with a milder, sweeter flavour.

They have a white bulb and long green leaves, and the white and light green parts are both edible. Leeks are often used in soups, stews, and stir-fries for their subtle oniony taste and creamy texture.

Members of the illustrious and indispensable Alliaceae family, leeks are native to the Middle East and eastern Mediterranean. From depictions in tombs of ancient Egypt in 3200 BCE to present-day Wales, leeks boast an intriguing cultural journey. Sixth-century Welsh soldiers are said to have worn the dark green leaves on their helmets while fighting the Saxons, possibly to camouflage them in fields of leeks; the leek remains the symbol of Wales to this day.

When they’re young, leeks look like hefty scallions, but as they mature, they can become very large indeed. Young leeks can be eaten raw while the flavour of mature leeks is delicate, sweet and mellow when cooked, imparting a pleasant oniony flavour without the bite of onions and garlic. Usually, only the white and very light green portions are used, the dark green tops are fibrous and strong tasting, best kept for stock. Keep leeks in the fridge untrimmed and unwashed.

You can use leeks instead of ordinary onions in most recipes, however, they tend to be more expensive than onions, so perhaps they’re best kept for recipes where they take centre stage. Leeks can be braised, sautéed, roasted, put in soups and stews and even fried in very hot oil until crispy for an unusual garnish. Unless you want them to melt into the soup or sauce, try not to overcook leeks. They can become mushy, even slimy very quickly. Especially in a braise, just fork-tender is ideal.

If one is unfamiliar, it’s hard to know what to do with a leek and the grit and dirt that gets caught in between the leaves can be off-putting. Try splitting the leek lengthwise with the root still attached to keep it all together. Rinse under cold water, pulling the layers slightly apart. Drain, trim the root end and the dark green leaves, and chop as needed. The whitest part of a leek, especially those commercially grown, can be tight enough to let you cut rounds, but check first. There’s nothing worse than gritty food. Alternately, trim and chop or slice them, then toss in a colander under cold water. Drain the sliced or chopped leeks well before sautéing hot oil.

Try Ellen’s recipe for Potato & Leek Soup.