Radishes

I’m inordinately fond of radishes. They’re cheerful and bright and speak volumes of the burgeoning season. A favourite poem, Radishes by Lorna Crozier, begins thusly:

Radishes flip their skirts in the wind like a line of chorus girls throw them over their heads.

Radishes evoke that kind of jubilation. Their accelerated growth helps allay the impatience of spring, just as their party-colours, blousy green leaves and spicy crunch wipe away the dullness of winter from our palates.

My first thoughts when buying radishes? Are they fine enough to eat alone with nothing more than very good butter and salt? Are the greens pretty enough to leave on when served? Are they just sharp enough to pique the appetite but not so hot as to distract from the meal to come? Radishes are grown all year round as close to home as B.C., but the first locally grown bunches are always much anticipated.

Buying radishes with the greens still attached is not merely a cosmetic choice. The state of the leaves will be a good indication of the freshness of the radish. They should be perky and crisp, bright green without blemishes. If you’re not using them right away, it’s a good idea to remove the greens when you get them home. As with carrots, the leaves continue to draw nutrients from the root if left on. The radishes and the greens will keep up to a week in the fridge if this is done. And yes, if the greens are especially nice, you’ll want to keep them. As with all brassicas, the leaves are as edible (and delicious) as the rest of the plant. Mix them in with other greens like spinach, kale or Swiss chard. They’ll contribute a lovely spicy note to the end result, not to mention being as nutritious as any of the others.

Look for very firm, smallish roots. Don’t hesitate to give one or two a good squeeze. The harder, the crunchier. There are radishes that attain a great size, like the Asian daikon, and they’re in a category of their own.

The delightful heirloom watermelon radish is another that is often larger than the ordinary radish. When sliced, the pale green outer layer and the surprising pinkish red interior adds pizzazz to any salad.

The most common radish grown and found in supermarkets and farmers’ markets is the round red Cherry Belle, but other varieties can often be found in the spring. Keep an eye out for oval or round Easter Egg radishes, white, red, lavender and purple all bunched together; long thin snowy White Icicles; and the classic French Breakfast, elongated, magenta topped with a white tip.

Radishes are related to turnips and other members of the mustard family. It’s where they get their bite. As such, they can be cooked quite successfully. They lose a bit of their heat but make a lovely braised or sautéed side dish. Radish sprouts are another way to enjoy this most spring-like vegetable. You can easily make them yourself or seek them out at markets and health food stores. Pickling is yet another way to enjoy radishes. Just keep them in the fridge and add to sandwiches and salads whenever you want a little lift.