A perennial autumn favourite is always scalloped potatoes. My grandmother made a bechamel for hers and, sadly, it could often be hit or miss. Years ago, the uber-talented Klaus Wöckinger, of La Chaumière and Dante’s fame, showed me a fail-safe, albeit much richer, method that has served me well ever since. Add cheese, garlic, mustard or a little horseradish or simply leave plain. Leave the peels on the potatoes too if you prefer, it’s up to you.