Grapes

The grape is one of the earliest cultivated plants, likely originating in the Caucasus. Dried grapes (raisins, to the uninitiated) travelled from Greece in the Middle Ages to Northern Europe, especially Britain, where their touch of sweetness, then considered quite exotic, was much prized.

There are three categories: white (encompassing green grapes), red and black. Table grapes grow where wine grapes grow, of course, so B.C. and Ont., as well as many parts of the U.S., provide us with most of the fruit we see.

To name but a few: Concord grapes are deep purple with that recognizable grape jelly flavour. Champagne grapes are tiny and sweet, a novelty grape mostly found in food service. Sweet Globe, Cotton Candy and Autumn King are large, sweet green grapes and are common, as are Flame Seedless and Red Globe, round crunchy red grapes. I especially watch for muscat grapes – small and round, green and pink-tinged, with a delicately floral flavour.

Here are some fun ways to use grapes:

• Grape Juice: Simply crush the stemless grapes thoroughly with a potato masher and let the mash sit for a few hours to let the skins colour and flavour the juice. Strain, pushing down hard to extract the most juice. Taste, sweeten if desired, and serve chilled over ice with soda and a small bunch of frozen grapes.

• Frozen Grapes: Freeze grapes stemless or in small neat bunches, after washing and drying thoroughly. Since they won’t dilute your beverage, they make a charming substitute for ice cubes in cocktails, punch and white wine. Add frozen grapes to smoothies; they taste like sorbet.

• Sparkly Grape Garnish: Paint small clusters of grapes with an egg white which has been beaten with 15 ml (1 Tbsp) water. Dust the grapes with granulated white sugar and set aside to dry before serving. This is a fun thing to do with kids if you’re so inclined.

• Salads: Fresh grapes are lovely eaten out of hand but can be used in other ways as well. Aside from the once considered adventurous chicken salad or questionable Waldorf salad, grapes add a pop of sweetness and colour to salads of all sorts. Add them fresh to yogurt, granola and smoothies.

• Roasted Grapes: While they sound a bit unlikely, they’ll be a pleasant surprise, I promise. Toss stemmed grapes with mild olive oil, Maldon salt and freshly ground black pepper, and roast in a 220 C (425 F) oven for about 30 minutes. The grapes will soften and become jammy, intensifying in sweetness. Eat them with roasted meats, toss into a salad, top grilled bread slathered with goat cheese (alla bruschetta) or spoon over ice cream. The smallest drizzle of balsamic vinegar just out of the oven adds another dimension.

• Salsa: Grapes in a salsa do what other chopped fruits like mango, melon and papaya do, add sweetness, flavour and texture. Combine halved or chopped grapes with chopped red onion, cilantro, jalapeno, lime juice, oil and salt. Serve this salsa with your favorite chips or alongside grilled fish or chicken.

• Dressings: Grapes make a delicately flavoured vinaigrette, perfect for light summer salads. Blend together fresh grapes and grape seed oil with a squeeze of lemon juice, salt, pepper and your choice of fresh herbs. Clean and bright, this is a great way to use up grapes that are still tasty but soft and little past their prime.

I don’t usually recommend sampling the produce but buying grapes does require a taste test. As there are always loose grapes rolling around, most grocers don’t mind as long as you’re discreet and don’t take more than one. Quality can vary wildly, and you can’t really tell from just looking. Do, however, look for plump, firm fruit that is securely attached to flexible vines. Grapes should smell sweet; overripe fruit will smell fermented and vinegary. Once home, remove any soft or spoiled grapes to avoid spoiling the rest. Keep grapes, ventilated, for up to a week in the fridge and store away from strong smelling foods. Don’t wash your grapes until you’re ready to eat them.